How to Sew a Mini Tote Bag (With Pockets, If You're Feeling Fancy)

Mini Canvas Tote Bag

I've made a lot of totes at this point, but this mini version is the one I keep coming back to — it's fast and it's the perfect size for a lunch bag, a knitting project, or just hauling your phone/keys/chapstick around like a functioning adult. Here's exactly how I make mine, corners boxed and all.

What You'll Need

  • 1 — 15" x 13" canvas (bottom)
  • 2 — 15" x 9" canvas (sides)
  • 2 — 15" x 9" accent fabric or 1 - 15" x 13" accent fabric
  • 2 — 6" x 6" canvas (optional pockets)
  • 2 — 36" webbing straps
  • Sewing machine, pins/clips, iron
  • 1/2" seam allowance throughout

A quick note on fabric: you can absolutely use the same print for the bottom and both sides for a clean, matchy look, or let the side panels be your accent fabric. Both look great — it just depends on how you want this bag to be.

Step 1: Finish the Top Edge

Before anything else, give the top raw edge of each 15" x 9" side panel a clean finish so it doesn't fray and looks polished once the bag is done. 

Doing an accent fabric? If you're piecing an accent onto your side panels, sew that seam and get your panels to their final 15" x 9" first — then treat the whole thing as one piece for the steps below. Don't finish the top edge until the panel is fully pieced together.

  1. Fold the top raw edge over 1/4" and press with your iron.
  2. Fold it over another 1/4" and press again.
  3. Sew down along the edge to secure the fold.

Repeat this on both side panels before moving on.

Step 2: Prep Your Side Panels (Pockets + Handles)

If you're adding pockets, this is where they go.

  1. Lay a 6" x 6" square at the bottom of one 15" x 9" side panel, right side up (if you are doing a pocket).
  2. Place a webbing strap on either side, about 2.5" in from the center, with the raw edge of the webbing lined up at the top raw edge of the panel.
  3. Sew the straps down along the sides, making sure your stitching also catches the raw edges of the pocket square (if you did one) as you go. This secures the pocket and the strap in one pass.
  4. Repeat on your second side panel.

Step 3: Attach the Sides to the Bottom

  1. With right sides together, lay a 15" x 9" side panel against the 15" x 13" bottom panel, matching up the 15" edges. Sew along that edge with a 1/2" seam allowance.
  2. Finger press the seam open on the right side (the pretty side).
  3. Topstitch along the seam for a clean, finished look.
  4. Repeat with the second side panel on the opposite edge of the bottom.

At this point you should have one long strip: side panel — bottom — side panel, with the pockets and handles sitting at the top of each side panel.

Step 4: Sew the Side Seams

  1. Fold the strip so the top seams meet, right sides together — double check your handles are lined up so they don't end up twisted or off-center.
  2. Sew down both raw edges (the sides of the bag) with a 1/2" seam allowance.

You've now got a bag shape — it just needs its bottom squared off.

Step 5: Box the Bottom Corners

This is the step that takes it from "fabric pouch" to "tote bag that actually stands up."

  1. With the bag still inside out, push one bottom corner out into a point, so the side seam lines up directly on top of the bottom seam (fold line). It'll form a little triangle.
  2. Flatten that triangle and measure from the point. For this size bag, mark a line about 2.5" from the tip — this gives you a base roughly 5" wide. (Want a deeper, more substantial base? Measure further from the point. Want it more compact? Measure less. This number is really a style choice.)
  3. Sew straight across that marked line.
  4. Repeat on the other bottom corner.

Step 6: Turn and Go

Turn the bag right side out, push out your corners and seams, and give it a press if you're the type (I am, sometimes). Voilà — one mini tote, ready for whatever you're hauling today.